About walking : it's the best way to know the land. You don't see things the same way in a car, Now when I look up and see the downs and their landmarks I know them well because I was there. The world slowed so I could learn and see. It was amazing how much ground we've already covered. Today was exactly why I do this; the ancient route, away from traffic and the current world, just my feet and the ground. It was a step back in time.
Today was a longer day, 15.4 miles of the Way but then another 2 to get from the Way up on the downs descending through the village of Kingston and into Lewes. But though it was long it was straight and more or less flat, just perfect walking through the countryside.
It was a day of animals, mountain bikes, horses, paragliding, and the sacred spaces .
It wasn't exactly a day of quiet isolation, being a busy weekend, but it was close. Everyone said Good Morning or Hiya, everyone was having a good time sharing their love of the outdoors. It was nice to belong.
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| Empty Alfriston |
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| Morning Village Scene |
Back to Alfriston where we ended up yesterday. We were driven by Taxi Man Sam from India but lived in Lewes 42 years . Humanity is going to destroy itself. Kind of early in the day for that kind of talk. Have a nice day!
I would love to come back here again. There's so much I haven't seen or experienced around the village. The architecture, the charm, the walking, the river.... on the list!
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| Outside the Star Inn |
The Way continues through Alfriston ( ALL-friston) and climbs right away following a drove road along which sheep were driven to market.
Names like Long Burgh, High and Over, Greenway Bottom, remind me of Hobbiton and Bree.
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| Traffic Jam |
After steady walking I arrive at Firle Beacon. The ridge of the downs must have been a sacred place for early peoples, there are tumuli and hillforts the entire way. Standing on a tumulus the entire valley on all sides was visible, from the sea and the Cuckmere Estuary where I was yesterday , to Lewes in the distance. In fact, Lewes was with me the entire day, though oddly it never seemed to get closer! I felt like a plane circling the airport.
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| Firle Beacon |
There are many interesting things along the Way. Below the Beacon is the Firle Estate, which has belonged to the Gage family since the 15thC, There are memorials, foundations, dew ponds, abandoned villages, chalk pits, roads... one of them is this stone. I haven't been able to find out anything about it.
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| The Lauren-George Stone |
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| Ridge Soaring Paragliders at Bopeep Bostal |
I walked through a field of the calmest and prettiest cattle I've ever seen. They were all happy, sleeping, some lying flat. They were like napping cats.
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| Happy Cows |
What a treat! Looking up there was the hunt coming! What a beautiful sight. One of the members stopped to chat a bit, they were from the South Downs Itford Club.
The first sight of trees. Windy?
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| Itford Farm |
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| Bridge for Bikes, Horses and Me... Crossing the A26 |
I really feel lucky to be able to walk in England like this. It's a gift the country has given to people, the gift of history, free range land and a love of nature. Where else can you do this?
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| I Was Way Up There! |
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| Two Halves of the Earth Collide |
HA! 0 degrees longitude, the Meridian Line where the Eastern and Western Hemispheres meet. Right next to a stinky manure pile too.
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| The Forever Road Oh my, this concrete farm road went on forever. It had no end, I mean it. We turned off of it and it was still going on. |
Time for lunch. We stop in Southease. Southease has a Norman church with a circular tower, as well as something very important – a water tap. There was also a free cart of fruit for walkers. Too bad they were doing repair work.
We lingered around outside the church, enjoying the peaceful village green.
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| Lunch View |
Ok onward.....About now I'm starting to want to be back in Lewes. Linda already asked me about dinner, the day is ending. I'm thirsty, I'm wearing out.
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| Late Afternoon Hack |
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| Spider Bench |
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| Detour? |
Finally we're above Kingston but still a ways from Lewes. We cut down Juggs Road. Juggs Road is called Juggs Road because it's part of an ancient route that fishermen used to carry their fish to Lewes market. The fish were stored in juggs. Thus... Jugg Road. I can imagine these simple, hard working people with their carts and ponies. The chalk and flint that lined the road was hard as concrete and uneven. Ankle twisters. I'm now officially tired.
From Kingston it's a straight shot on public lanes and paths to Lewes. There in Kingston was the windmill I'd been seeing on and off all day.
I'd like to explore Lewes. It has a tempting collection of little lanes and secret places, but we've been so busy walking there's been no time to get out. There's shopping, tea rooms, a Victorian garden, a castle, a brewery, medieval streets and Anne of Cleve's house and tea room, which I've seen but wouldn't mind seeing again.
This sign says " Although recorded in history that George IV when Prince Regent drove a coach and four down Keere Street for a wager, access by vehicles to and from High Street is now forbidden". Cute huh? I love stuff like this.
Dinner at the Rights of Man pub, named in honor of the revolutionary, and America's Founding Father, Thomas Paine, who lived in Lewes at one point. They're very proud of their wayward son.
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| Yes, Time to Take a Load Off |
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