DAY ONE: EASTBOURNE to ALFRISTON

There'll be bluebirds over

The (less famous than the) white cliffs of Dover

Tomorrow

Just you wait and see

OUCH! OUCH! OUCH! My legs are achin'! What looked like a flat, grassy ramble along the ocean cliffs was in reality an up and down hill and dale workout. 12.07 miles today starting in Eastbourne and ending in charming Alfriston. There was no denying the wordless beauty or the feeling of scale. The popularity of this walk was clear, we were not alone.

The First Rise Out of Eastbourne

Belle Tout Lighthouse and a Long Way to Go

Traveling again at a speed meant to absorb the world. I never understood people who went out walking as if they had a train to catch. Stop and let the senses explore.

 Beachy Head light built in 1902 . Stand there and feel the wind rush through your fingers. Photos don't come near to the weightlessness of peering over the side below. Jackdaws and Fulmars nest in cliff cavities flying in and out, the tide was going out, It was a little dizzying. It couldn't have been better weather. 
Beachy Head and the entire South Downs Coast has a murky history as a haven for smugglers.Its prominence has long made it a landmark for sailors, and returning airmen in WW2 felt the relief of home when they saw it and the White Cliffs. 

Belle Tout Lighthouse, Now a B&B

Hold Back, Climb Up, Repeat

Who is Malcolm? I thought it was nice he has his name on this gate.

When I'm walking endlessly I get a little stir crazy, let's take a cow break! 

There are seven hills, with an eighth one being created by the erosion of the sea.

• Haven Brow.
• Short Bottom.
• Short Brow.
• Limekiln Bottom.
• Rough Brow.
• Rough Bottom.
• Brass Point.
• Gap Bottom.

Lunch With a View, Best Table in the Place

Cuckmere Estuary.... hallelujah! As much as the coast is adored and thought to be the highlight of the entire walk,  I found it tedious walking and repetitive. Now the Way turns North into the land, along the River Cuckmere. This area was heavily into smuggling in the 18-19C.  I missed the stone marking the site of the lost medieval church at Exceat. The church looked out over the Cuckmere Estuary and was built around 1050-80 .The late 13th century bought an end to the village, which was burnt to the ground in a raid and the survivors finished off by the Black Death. By 1428 there was only one family left living. Walking by and giving them a nod had to be enough. 

A well timed distraction into this hidden village easily missed. West Dean dates from Saxon times with many listed buildings. King Alfred stayed here! 

The Door of the Rectory

The Dovecote

What Did I Tell You? Stop and Enjoy!

The White Horse (19C) and a Sunflower Field

And the rains came! 

Linda-Thorin

Coming into Litlington I wanted so much to stop out of the rain into the cozy pub with the candles on the table. People were laughing and drinking. Hitting the wall, at 9.98 miles I started to die. Now one mile left, feets (and everything else) don't fail me now.  

Ditch digging farming outside Alfriston. Farmers drain the wetlands to provide pasture. 

Oh Alfriston! 

Home Stretch

I Deserve This!